Generally speaking, the first rule of visiting Joe Manchin's houseboat is don't talk about Joe Manchin's houseboat.
This week, however, when Sen. Lindsey Graham, R-S.C., tested positive for the coronavirus after attending a weekend cruise on Almost Heaven - named after the opening line of John Denver's elegy to West Virginia, "Take Me Home, Country Roads" - it's all anyone in Washington wanted to discuss.
News releases began pouring out from the offices of Sens. Mark Kelly, D-Ariz.,, Jacky Rosen, D-Nev., and Catherine Cortez Masto, D-Nev., admitting that the senators had been onboard but emphasizing that they'd followed public-health guidelines about testing and masking. Rumors spread throughout Capitol Hill that Sen. John Thune, R-S.D., a regular on the boat, had been spotted wearing a mask outside of the Senate physician's office (his office later said he tested negative). Some lawmakers made efforts to tamp down any sense of scandal or indulgence.
"It was a cookout," Sen. Christopher Coons, D-Del., said walking through the Capitol basement on the way to votes on Tuesday. "We literally had hot dogs and hamburgers at, like, four in the afternoon on top of a boat that was moving with a stiff breeze."
"There's no 'parties,' " Manchin himself said of the semi-mysterious doings onboard his precious vessel. "Basically, there's gatherings we have on Almost Heaven. We know each other and talk to each other." The West Virginia senator was sporting a bandage on his forehead while talking to reporters, an injury he says he sustained fixing a sink, not partying, on the boat.
So far, nobody beyond Graham has reported a positive test. But the notion that Almost Heaven might become the Diamond Princess of the Potomac put a spotlight on what has become a crucial destination for members of Official Washington.
At the ideological center of a 50-50 Senate, Manchin, a Democrat, has found himself in the captain's seat for much of what gets done, or doesn't get done, in Washington. This means that the Room Where it Happens is often a large pleasure craft/domicile floating on the capital waterways. At least three Biden cabinet secretaries have spent time on Almost Heaven, as have the White House chief of staff and dozens of senators.
"The core group that worked on this infrastructure bill has been socializing on the boat together for a long time," said Coons. "The bill probably would have fallen apart, after there were some strong crosscurrents, if not for the trust and relationships that were built, including during time on the boat."