Hi, op. My Dad had an HVAC Business for 60 years and I worked for him sometimes.
If you don’t want to bother doing a lot of research, Just go to Sears and buy a Kenmore. You can’t go wrong with them.
Youll need your room size. Length x width. The A/Cs will state the size the are designed for. You can always buy one that’s a bit oversized, but don’t buy one that’s a lot oversized, because there aren’t designed that way. And don’t buy one that is undersized. They work best if you can choose a window that is not in direct sunlight.
Below a certain size, somewhere around 12,000 BTU or maybe 14,000 BTU, they can use a normal electrical outlet. Above that size, and you’d need an electrician to put in a higher voltage outlet, I think it’s 220, but whatever, try to avoid that. Beware that some people have trouble with an A/C put on the same circuit as the vacuum cleaner and toaster.
Whatever you do, when the A/C is installed, it must be level, or pitched slightly downward in the back. If it’s tilted in, water will drip insides instead of out the back, and all that water can do thousands of dollars in damage quickly. When it’s installed, double check that the interior is dry. Also be aware, if someone lives below you, you should choose an A/C installation spot that doesn’t drip on them, like over their entrance. It’s possible to use a hose to direct condensation in a different direction, but that’s a pain.
If you have a storm window whose frame is above the interior window frame, that would cause the A/C to point in. The fix is to nail a 1x3 board to the interior window from so that it is raised above the exterior. Use two 1x3s in top of each other, if the extra height is needed.
As for the casement window, you have a project ahead of you. You have to remove the window, then use wood to frame the place for the A/C to sit into and against. After having the frame built, then use plywood to block any open window space above the A/C, or on it’s sides. Make sure it’s storm proof, meaning rainwater can’t get in.
Good luck!